Mac Forbes Grüner Veltliner 2006

Carnuntum, Austria. 12.5%. Screwcap. Approx $A28.

Sometime last year I had dinner with three good Catholic lads. It was a wine and expletive filled night that I recall fondly. I had a repeat dose tonight, though things seemed a little more sedate. Perhaps that is what happens when you get closer to 40. . .

This time the venue was Piccolo, on Angove St, in North Perth. It's a small corner restaurant with very comforting and hearty food. Though not sophisticated, the serves are abundant, well made and quite charming. I had the 300g rib eye steak, (they do also offer a 1000g version, which I understand no one has ever ordered) which was lovely and succulent.

Several bottles of wine were consumed including the brisk and refreshing 2006 Mac Forbes Grüner Veltliner (An Austrian Grüner made by an Australian!). This was an excellent, svelte, apple and pear laden wine. (Drink now, 91/100). Also enjoyed was a deceptive bottle of 2003 Pierro Pinot noir (Margaret River 14%, screwcap) which I could have sworn was Victorian in taste and profile. It was certainly one of the better pinots that I have tasted from Margaret river, with a lovely and fragrant nose and plenty of zip and polish, (90/100). Also misleading (to me at least) was the lovely and approachable 2003 St Hugo Cabernet sauvignon (14.5%, Cork) which I thought was a shiraz. Even in retrospect, it seemed too ginger spice and earthy to be anything else, (91/100). More typical was the mature and elegant 1992 Penfold St Henri Shiraz. Which was showing ginger, leather and iron, along with a lovely sweetness and firm gripping tannins, (90/100).

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Mayer Pinot noir 2006

Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia. 13.5%. Diam. Approx $A50.

The very able Mr Walsh has written an excellent tasting note for this wine. I must concur with his conclusion, and would heartily commend this to all pinotphiles.

Vibrant, lush and satisfying. There is an amalgam of strawberry, spice and stems to greet the nose, which is lovely pure and pristine to begin, before eventually showing more stalk, rubber and earth. Delightful in the mouth, with its combination of softness, succulence and charm. There a sanguineous, meaty edge to complement the juiciness and zip, before an expansive and finely structured conclusion.

Very good - excellent.
94.
Now - 2013.

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Dinner time

It's not really all that cold (I'm still wearing a T shirt), but it is wet outside and the days are short and getting shorter. I thought I'd cook some stodgy food to celebrate the gloom.

It was also an excuse to open a poorly cellared bottle of 2000 De Bortoli Pinot noir (Yarra Valley, 13.5%). Which had been sitting in an unused fireplace for the last 4 years, gathering dust and putting up with swings in temperature. I had meant to open it some years back, but kept forgetting. Despite its colour (brown), it was still quite drinkable and varietal, with pleasing acid (no it was not vinegar) and structure.

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Santa Rita Reserva Cabernet sauvignon 2004

Maipo Valley, Chile. 14.5% alcohol. Cork. Approx $A22.

Initially pungent and sharp, this thiol laden wine needs air and time. Verdant, without being weedy and laced with ripe blackcurrant and a trace of burnt rubber. Approachable, full and packed with sweet vanilla, the tannins are initially inky and unresolved, though again with patience, shape and grace appear.

This is quite good, it's varietal and generous, whilst the American oak provides plenty of crowd pleasing vanilla softness.

Good.
86.
Now - 2011.

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Seven songs and breakfast

I've been tagged (by the talented Mr Bathgate) for another meme, this time about music and the number 7. Have a look at Alistair's blog for the rules. Over a breakfast of chicken, mushrooms and spinach rolled in a crepe and topped with a slightly cheesy tasting Hollandaise sauce ($A12 Beaufort St Merchant), I compiled my list.

First is Dylan and It’s alright ma (I'm only bleeding). I still don’t know exactly what this about, but surely that’s the attraction of much of Dylan’s music. Surly, preaching and beseeching. Listen to it 1000 times and get 1000 different meanings. I could easily have picked two other Dylan songs – Masters of war or The lonesome death of Hattie Carroll.

Second is Kathleen Edwards and Away. I suspect in the months to come I will tire of this. So far I’ve listened to it only a handful of times, and each time the softness, prettiness and frailty of the voice moves me. The youtube clip captures very little of the beauty, indeed she sounds whining and off key.

Third, Stevie Wonder and You are the sunshine of my life. As I get older I seem more prone to bouts of grumpiness and abruptness. The occassional upbeat and life affirming song is an essential counterbalance.

Nick Cave. Into my arms. Is this the greatest (certainly it's the manliest) Australian love song ever?

Johnny Cash, Solitary man. There are many versions of this, but none have the simple power, diction and timing of Cash. I'm also quite partial to the slurred but melodramatic Flesh and Blood.

John Coltrane, Alabama. It's a long time since the darkness of the 15th of September 1963, but this still remains as haunting and evocative as ever.

JS Bach, Goldberg Variations. In the video, Gould is much older and more correctly paced (than in 1955), though reassuringly he is still humming whilst perched on a ridiculously low stool. Though likely to be apocryphal, I find the idea that this was written to ease a man's insomnia very pleasing.

I should now tag seven other people, but I don't like rules or following instructions, so if you have a blog, or just want to leave comments about your seven songs, consider yourself tagged. I'll formalise the process and send this black ball to five people - Barry Soulbrother Fowden, Joe, The Shlog blogger, an Audacious medical student and Barbara.

Chateau Teyssier 2005

Saint Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France. Merlot, Cabernet franc. 14% alcohol. Cork. Approx $A35 for a half bottle.

Manages to smell soft and cuddly whilst in the mouth it is firm and assertive.

Bacon fat, tobacco, black olives and cassis. There's nothing sharp, green or ungainly about this. In the mouth it is well paced, rounded, soft and inviting before excellent creamy tannins unfurl and envelop. There's a pleasing persistence as well as a graphite and meaty edge to the finish. Simultaneously serious and delicious.

Very good - Excellent.
93.
Now - 2013.

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Grosset Polish Hill 2002

Polish Hill, Clare Valley, South Australia. 13%. Screwcap. Source: Cellar.

Still coiled and very primary, there is no need to hurry.

Lime, blossom, candied citrus and pebbles. There is no trace of kero, though the faintest hint of toast is starting to emerge. Quite exceptional in the mouth. Pure, long, essence like and full of vitality. Direct, hard and unmistakably Clare.

Excellent.
94+
Now - 2022+

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Pork belly

This is from A year in my kitchen by Skye Gingell. There are a few minor modifications to the the quantities and if you have access to outdoor cooking facilities, I'd strongly recommend using them. I found the final part of the pork cooking very messy, though I suspect I used a little too much oil and did not dry the pork well enough. . .

Ingredients:

• 2kg of pork belly, skin on and bones in
• Spices - 2 cinnamon quills, 10 cloves, 3 star anise, 6 peppercorns, 1 chilli, 6 cloves of garlic (peeled), medium sized nob of ginger (peeled)
• Roots of three fresh coriander
• Half cup of soy sauce
• Third of a cup of Maple syrup

How?
This could well be called thrice cooked pork belly.
First place the pork belly in a large pot and cover with water. Bring to the boil and then remove the pork and dispose of the water. Return the pork to the now cleaned pot and cover with water again. Now add the spices and the coriander and simmer for 2 hours. Remove the pork and set aside, remove the chilli and the ginger and dispose. To the liquid add the soy and Maple syrup and return to the boil and reduce (30-60 minutes, depending on the size of pot and amount of water added), creating a richly flavoured sauce. Slice the pork, and heat a generous splash of oil in a pan till very hot. Add the pork and fry each side for several minutes till golden and crisp.

Serve.
I served mine with steamed broccolini and rice. Top with a generous ladle of now reduced sauce.

Warning.
The final stage of cooking (the frying of the pork) is best done outside. There will be smoke and hot oil splattering everywhere.* Of course using less oil and drying the pork would reduce these problems.

Wine?
I opted for a pinot noir, with good acid and soft structure. It was quite suitable, though I suspect many other red wines (merlot, sangiovese etc) would have been very good as well.

* I have several burns to proves this. . .

Ata Rangi Pinot noir 2006

Martinborough, New Zealand. 13.5%. Screwcap. Approx $A65.

The back label of the bottle states: The superb 2006 vintage has delivered a dream wine. Meanwhile, Bob Campbell MW writes*: This is probably the best Ata Rangi pinot that I have tasted. He finishes his note with the words Kiwi Musigny.

This really is a beautiful wine. Prettier and more refined than the previous vintage, though the descriptors and traits may be similar. Flowing, shapely and full of life, it is seamless, complex and utterly compelling. Succulent and pert, this is classically formed and enduring.

Excellent.
95.
Now - 2016.

* Australian Gourmet Traveller Wine April/May 2008.

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Postcard: Beijing street food

For those phobic of these eight legged creatures, New Zealand is the place to be.
It's thought that Scorpions evolved in one place (in the Northern Hemisphere) and then spread throughout the world (like Humans out of Africa), though they were too slow to reach Aotearoa.

Image credit: Thanks again to by dear sister for the photo.

Domaine du Gros' Noré Bandol Rouge 2004

Bandol, Provence, France. Mourvedre (80%). 15% alcohol. Cork. Approx $A50.

Bold and warming, it's not hard to imagine where such a wine could come from. Bandol faces the Mediterranean and the south and is baked by sun (over 3000 hours per year).

Captivating and in rude health, this is a delightful and disarming wine. It smells of raisin, cassis, smallgoods (liver sausage) and aniseed. As others have pointed out, this is hedonistic, full and direct. Lovely and plush, inviting and rich, but in time there is structure, firmness and muscle.

Excellent.
93.
Now - 2014+

Post script: I sometimes wonder if my tasting notes provide enough context. Periodically, I'll include links to some wines that I think are similar - either in genetics (sibling) or taste profile (cousins).

Sibling - Ch Pibarnon. Cousins - Seghesio Sonoma Zin, Cape Mentelle Zin.

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Music and wine

There was a time, when as a teen, I listened to music for hours each day. Then came children whose sleep took precedence. Music became something peripheral and half volume. The quieter it became, the less I listened.

For years I begrudgingly consumed commercial radio (on my way to and from work). It made music even less enjoyable. Predictable and bland. A filler and a distraction rather than anything substantive or enjoyable.

I've grown more particular with age, harder to please and less tolerant of formula and packaging. Despite this, I find that again I'm listening to and enjoying music, mesmerised by the beauty, frailty and power of some songs.

I imagine it's the same with wine. I have friends who once had a passion, but for whatever reason (health, children, money, spouse) they have lost interest. If they do drink it's the routine and mundane that passes their lips. A sure way to extinguish any remaining spark. Soon all wine becomes the same, an agreeable liquid that no longer excites. . .

Recommended reading: Mr A Bathgate.

Clos Henri Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2007

Marlborough, New Zealand. 13.6%. Screwcap. Source: restaurant wine list.

My mild aversion to Sauvignon blanc, was easily overcome by the words Clos Henri. I've read much, but till today tried none of the wine. It's a lovely story and a compelling marketing tag. A Frenchman from Sancerre, and a well regarded line of wine makers, in New Zealand making Sauvignon.

The wine itself is very interesting and quite apart from what you would normally associate with Marlborough. Whilst clearly pungent, wild and varietal, it has a different accent, with pear to complement the grass and gooseberry. Textured and ever so slightly oily, this is satisfying, brisk and full of nuance.

Very very good.
91.
Now - 2010.

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Egon Müller Scharzhof Qualitätswein 2005

Sadly no bottle shot worth posting, so instead a picture looking out to the Swan River from the Claisebrook cove bridge. This is metres away from where I consumed the wine in question.

For an entry level wine, this is extremely delicious. Crystalline and pure, this smells of a sticky childhood afternoon (with mustard fruit and toffee apple). Vibrant, juicy and precise, this should carry a dental warning and come in a bigger bottle. . .

Very very good.
92.
Now - 2012.

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Domaine De L'Arlot Nuit St George 'Le Petits Plets' 2004

Nuits St George, Burgundy, France. 13%. Cork. Half bottle. Approx $A40.

Quite similar to the last De L'Arlot I had, though with perhaps a little more softness and flesh.

Lovely initial burst of rose petal, perfume and sap, before settling into a more earthy and understated repose. Like its sibling, there is a note of ginseng, though as mentioned I thought this was more rounded and plump. The softness is evanescent and soon replaced by something more meaty and firm.

Very good.
91.
Now - 2014+

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Oakridge Chardonnay 2006

Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia. Chardonnay. 13%. Screwcap. Approx $A28

Dripping with acidity and brimming with flavour, this is an excellent chardonnay. Smokey, promising and scented with grilled pineapple, nuts and a hint of something wild. It evokes nectarine and almond meal but the main sensation is a shocking juiciness and a terrific focus and purity.

Excellent.
94.
Now - 2011.

Classmates: Howard Park Chardonnay, Bindi Composition.

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Postcard: Cooked centipede on a stick

If there is a marketplace for cooked centipedes on a stick, it would have to be China. My dear and talented sister (who took this photo, whilst visiting Beijing) reports that they are quite crunchy and possibly the most disgusting thing she has ever eaten.

Schloss Vollrads Rheingau Riesling 2005

Germany. 12%. Vino-lok. Approx $A40.

Lacking the customary Schloss Vollrads crest, and the three, four and five syllable Germanic descriptors one would commonly associate with quality, I'd imagine this is an entry level wine. It's also my entry for WBW45, which this month is hosted by the always reliable and informative Winecast.

From the year that can seemingly do no wrong, this 2005 Riesling is pleasingly pure, pale and piercing. The nose is fragrant with candied citrus, apple and dried apricot. In the mouth it is a lovely amalgam of sweetness and intense, face distorting acidity. Quite fleshy, inviting and textured, before a crisp kaffir lime finish.

Very good - excellent.
91.
Now - 2015.

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Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf du Pape 2005

Southern Rhone, France. Grenache, shiraz, mourvedre, cinsault 14.5%. Cork. Half bottle (the non embossed one in the foreground) approx $A55.

I'm fond of small bottles of wine. They are perfect for the solitary wino who wants to drink something special without being left with a hangover or wasted wine.

Delightful and defined, this manages to be silken, sour, fatty and chiseled all at once. Raspberry, spice, malt and confection, with perhaps a hint of straw and rusticity. Quite compelling. Chubby and rounded to begin, the muscles and sinew soon tighten and harden giving a finish which is notable for its superb, gripping and enduring tannins. So good, I was tempted to open another half bottle. . .

Very good - excellent
93+
Now - 2018+

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Penfolds St Henri 2004

South Australia. Shiraz. 14.5%. Cork.

May 1 and day one in the (drinking) life of St Henri 2004.

First (and possibly incorrect) impressions: This is big, black and sweet smelling. A multifaceted, layered nose of considerable nuance. Cherry ripe, berry compote and spice. Silky, raisin and Port like. Quite lush, but from memory more to the right (in terms of flavour and size) than the 02.

The dinner date (pepper steak and mash): Subdued and more than a little awkward. Inky, slightly sweet, grainy, firm and chewy. I wonder if this would look more fetching with a little less flab. Still there is lovely length, plenty of power and the family lineage suggests grace and ease will come with time.

About last night (day 2 impressions): Deliciously juicy, lavender scented and now perfectly on song. Chiseled and tighter than day one, the lush sensuality is now matched with flow, pace and structure.

Excellent
95
2010 - 2024+

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Alion 1999

Ribera del duero, Spain. 13.5%. Cork. Approx $A100.

Full of vim and vigour.

Smells and behaves like a fine Bordeaux. Leafy and mature with shellac and faint ginger spice. Exceptional in the mouth, structured, flavoured, lingering and quite delicious. Lovely and grainy, this demands respect and attention.

Excellent
94
Now - 2013+

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Lucien Muzard et fils Santenay 'Champs Claude' 2005

Santenay, Burgundy, France. 13%. Pinot noir. Cork. Approx $A50

A joyous wine.

Beautifully coloured, vibrant and giving. Enticing and pure nose with cherry and a background note of sap and char. Light, silken and lush, this is love at first sip. Supple and delightful, the harsh might say this lacks weight, depth and line. Whilst I can concede some of this, I would thoroughly recommend this modestly priced, exceedingly lovely and velvet like Burgundy.

Very good - excellent.
93.
Now - 2010.

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A peacock's tail?

When you look at the picture do you just see light refracted through a glass of wine? Being a glass of Burgundy, I saw a Peacock's tail. . .

A wine diamond

Cork is full of surprises, mostly negative ones (such as taint and oxidation), but every now and then something beautiful, like this 'wine diamond'.

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Clos du Marquis 1996

St Julien, Bordeaux, France. (2nd wine of Leoville Las Cases). 12.5%. Cork. Source: Cellar.

Delicious wine.

Poised, graceful and lingering. The usual suspects are present and standing to attention - there's a lovely ripe blackcurrant, cigar box and cedar, but also a pleasing sense of fattiness and generosity. Full of brio and an enticing granularity, firmness and drive. Though light in alcohol, this is flavour rich, sensibly structured and hard to resist.

Excellent.
94.
Now - 2016+

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Arlewood Cabernet sauvignon 2001

Margaret River, Western Australia. Cabernet sauvignon. 14.8%. Cork. Approx $A35.

After a few days of anosmia, I thought I'd start with something familiar. The trifecta of 2001, Margaret River and Cabernet are near and dear to me. This wine does not disappoint, it is true to its region and grape and is classically scented and formed.

Smells of crushed tomato leaf, earth, eucalyptus and blackcurrant. Just the right combination of pong and perfume. Gripping and full, this is a delicious wine with satisfying grainy texture, accomplished chalky tannins and lovely length and line.

Very good - excellent.
92+
2010 - 2020.

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Anosmia

The absence of the ability to smell. Yesterday it was complete, today, I only have right sided anosmia. I can smell with my left nostril, which makes me optimistic for tomorrow and hopefully a glass of wine.

Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle Musigny 1er cru Les Cras 1995

Burgundy, France. 13% alcohol. Cork. Source: cellar.

Fusty and showing signs decay, this smells of cured meat, undergrowth and earth. A sip reveals more animal - a gripping, rasping, horse flavoured animal. I would assume brettanomyces in bloom. Despite or because of this, there is structure and an expansiveness which makes this still quite enjoyable. Don't wait though, rust never sleeps. . .

Good.
88.
Now.

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Vino-lok

If the choice of wine closure were purely based on aesthetics, surely the Vino-lok would win. In commercial production since 2004, this Alcoa idea is sadly still peripheral and uncommon.

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Pewsey Vale 'Prima' Riesling 2007

Eden Valley, South Australia. 9.5% alcohol. Vino-lok (glass stopper). Approx $A22.

Beautifully presented, the customary Pewsey Vale label looks brighter, larger and fresher than ever. With 22g per litre of residual sugar, 9.5% alcohol and 7.7g per litre of acidity, Halliday is right, in calling this a Mosel style riesling.

Smells of Eden, with blossom and lime, my mouth is powerless and reflexively starts to water. Succulent and intense, sweet but laced with sherbet like brightness and linear acidity. Lithe and juicy to the end this is a union of contradictions - sweet and sour, concentration of flavour and lightness of touch.

Very good - excellent.
92.
Now - 2013+

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Red cabbage with apple

In the presence of alkalinity, red cabbage turns a disconcerting blue. Most sensible recipes will ensure this does not happen with the addition of vinegar and acidic fruit, such as Granny Smith apples.

As Barry suggests, cabbage is a fine match for sausage and riesling. To do justice to my head of cabbage, I bought a bottle of riesling and then sought out some chubby Bratwurst.

Ingredients:

• 1 red cabbage - finely chopped
• 2 tablespoons of brown sugar
• pinch of salt
• 2 Granny Smith apples - peeled and sliced
• 60mls of white wine vinegar
• 60g of butter

How?

Wash the cabbage and then transfer to a large pot, with quarter a cup of water, the sugar, salt and apple. Cover and cook over very gentle heat for 1 hour, tossing occasionally. Towards the final 10 minutes add the vinegar and butter and mix through.

Despite the ancient Greek warning, that 'cabbage served twice is death', this has good left over and re-heating potential.

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Postcard: Where the streets have boys names

Clustered together in Highgate you will find a series of streets, all with boys names. There's Clarence, Lincoln, Edward, Roy, Alvan, Clive, Curtis, Gerald, Harley, Grant and William. All very solid and sensible, and mostly quaint and dated. Lincoln Street even has the most phallic building in the city, this now redundant tower, which I understand was used to pump sewage. Constructed in 1941 it was only used for its original purpose for a short time before sewage technology moved on. For much of its time the shell has hidden a police telecommunications tower.

The other reason to visit this end of Lincoln street, is the excellent cafe on the corner of Stirling. I had an indulgent and highly recommended breakfast of toasted lavash, filled with mushrooms, spinach, egg and feta.

The price of wine and petrol

Wine and petrol, two liquids that help me function every day. Both are taxed and both are subject to inflation. I wonder how tightly the prices are correlated? If I'm still blogging in years to come I will revisit the relative price of a tank of petrol (for a small car) and the price of a bottle of "poor man's Grange".

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Oakridge Pinot noir 2006

Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia. Pinot noir. 13.5%. Screwcap. Approx $A30.

Despite being initially grippy and stern (for moments only), this is essentially light, soft and delicious. Smells of sap, stalk, smoke and rose petal. Bright, juicy and lush in the mouth, the texture is pleasing but never overly substantive. Lithe, vibrant and delightful.

Very very good.
91.
Now - 2013+

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Vera Wang - Princess

Perhaps some will find the name and packaging off putting, overly sweet and young. The scent though is delicious. This is the perfume that most reminds me of food and indulgence, with ripe mango and vanilla flavoured meringue. This is a perfume with no sharpness, only soft curves and enticing warmth.

Recommended: Star anise

Visit Star anise on a Saturday and you will be greeted with a wax sealed page, such as this. The degustation / signature menu. It's a delightful and satisfying experience. Each of the varied dishes is complete and notable for the attention to detail and the precision of flavours. For $110 or $165 with matching wines ($195 for matching premium wines), it's close to Perth's best fine dining experience.

With respect to the wines, I had the $165 option and enjoyed the Cloudy Bay Pelorus NV (very good rendition, with chiseled acidity and lovely bead and scent), Bredif Vouvray 2005 (similar to my last taste, sap and mustard fruit, sweetness and acid), Hugel et fils Riesling 2005 (perhaps the best of the wines, lovely nose with musk, faint kero and citrus, even better in the mouth), Stefano Lubiano 'Primevera' Pinot noir 2007 (bright, firm and quite pleasing, drink now style of wine), Antinori Peppoli Chianti classico 2005 (tar and petal, inky and extracted, a little clumsy) and finally the Gandia 'Fusta nova' moscatel 2005 (sweet and full, not a great match for the sublime passionfruit souffle and parfait).

Related post: My 2007 visit.