Wino sapien

Streicker Chardonnay 2009

2012-02-26T21:46:00.001+08:00

Wilyabrup, Margaret River, Western Australia. Chardonnay. 14%. Screwcap. Approx $A35.

Something new and quite delicious. Bottle 2098 of 3400. It has a beautiful shape without ever appearing artificial or augmented. Complete and complex, made from the Gin Gin clone it has that beautiful juxtaposition of cream and acid, butter and stone. Rich, lush and indulgent, but never overdone. This sits easily among the other, older and more established, Margaret River elite. 92-94. Now - 2017

Henri Gouges Nuits St Georges Clos Des Porrets 2009

2012-02-25T21:46:00.003+08:00

Nuits St Georges, Burgundy, France. Pinot noir. 13%. Cork. Approx $A60 for a half.

If my eyes were closed I'd call it Australian. It smells and feels like something posh, from a boutique Yarra Valley producer. There's even a suggestion of bay leaf, which I'd be tempted to call eucalyptus had the bottle not been so clearly French. Presumably it's from the stems and whole bunches. . . Bright and fresh with sap, raspberry and spice. . . Pure and bold in the mouth, there is an inky and unresolved forcefulness to the tannins. Excellent. Till 2030.

Related.

Domaine A. et P. De Villaine Bouzeron 2008

2012-02-23T22:04:00.001+08:00

Cote Chalonnaise, Burgundy. Aligoté. 12.5%. Cork. Approx $A40

Even with the famous name I was expecting to be underwhelmed. Instead I find myself wonder struck. This is a superb wine with nervous acidity and fine flesh. I've scribbled crystalline on my scrap of paper, it has that wonderful combination of bright intensity and purity. Flint and citrus blossom, you can almost smell the sting that will follow. . . Mustard fruit, sap and a hum of electricity. A brilliant juxtaposition of simplicity and fresh faced beauty. Yes.

Related.
More related.

Mineral

2012-02-19T20:52:00.002+08:00

A glass of Perth tap water, notable for its hardness in the mouth. Sourced mostly from subterranean stores, the remainder coming from dams and desalination. It has a faint but distinct note of crushed lime stone and talc. The calcium giving a mineral edge and hardness, where most would prefer something slippery and residue free.

Animal, mineral or vegetable. Tasting notes are nowadays littered with references to all three, I used the word mineral 17 times in 2011 and excepting this it has appeared once this year. Of course Ive mentioned stones and flint and crystals many other times. What is it we taste that evokes the word mineral? On the basis of the water I taste (and feel), I know I can detect calcium and iron (bore water) and though there are no specific taste receptors for either, the metal ions presumably are capable of activating the required channels and subsequent sensory pathways. Are these and other mineral ions also present in wine? Is it these charged particles or simply fashion and intellectual laziness that cause us to exclaim mineral? Presumably money and a laboratory would go some way to answering the question. . .

Green tea ice cream

2012-02-19T08:21:00.006+08:00

A small hiatus in my imbibing which I thought I'd punctuate with ice cream.

Using Thermomix - add 3-4 tablespoons of Genmaicha (aka pop corn tea) and process at speed 10 for 20-30 seconds, so a very fine powder if produced. To this add 2 cups of full cream milk, 1 cup of cream, 2 egg yolks and 3/4 of a cup of sugar. Cook at 80 degrees for 5 minutes at speed 4. Transfer to a container and freeze for 4 hours and then whip while semisolid (speed 9 for 20-25 seconds). Return to the container and leave in the freezer overnight.

Pistachio Kulfi

2012-02-18T11:35:00.000+08:00

Coincident with this attempt at a Kulfi I've been reading about language games and Wittgenstein. So whilst this might not conform to a purists idea of how, it does seem to have the right core.

With Thermomix - process 1 cup of unsalted shelled pistachio nuts till fine (Speed 10 for 15 seconds) then add 3/4 cup of white sugar and 3 cups of fresh full cream milk. Cook at 70 degrees at speed 3 for 10 minutes. Strain this liquid though a mesh sieve, which will remove the coarser particles only. Pour into an appropriate receptacle and freeze.

Les Heritiers du Comte Lafon Macon Milly Lamartine Clos du Four 2009

2012-02-16T21:23:00.000+08:00

Macon, Burgundy, France. Chardonnay. 13%. Cork. Approx $A55.

The middle sister, with the same DNA but more poise and flair than its cheaper sibling. Again there's flint and butterscotch, peach skin, nut and tan lines. It seems larger than the stated 13, round and fleshy, powerful and seemingly with burnt edges - that illusory suggestion of toffee and caramel like intensity. Sappy and bright in the mouth, it bristles with youth and verdant vigour.

Image: I finally relented and bought a Thermomix. The first thing I made was orecchiette dough, and while I miss not using my hands to kneed, I can concede the dough is of a better consistency.

White plastic

2012-02-15T22:46:00.002+08:00

I've forgotten how pleasing and immediate wine can taste when it is bought and then opened within seconds and poured into a white plastic cup. Consumed standing and without a sniff or swirl, there is no time or place for affectation or tasting notes, though the brain still from habit, ponders how fine or thick, how clean or varietal. It helps of course if the wine have the stature and calibre of the 2011 Mt Horrocks Riesling (floral and delicate, slate and citrus) or the 2010 Yering Station Village Pinot noir (which is worthy of greater introspection and a return visit to the bottle shop).

Billecart Salmon Brut Rosé NV

2012-02-14T21:24:00.002+08:00

Being the 14th of February, there is a vase of long stemmed red roses on the bench, though the crimson you see reflected is from a baseball cap. Various other cultural aphrodisiac are also unseen. Chocolate by Nakamura and figs so fecund they have split their clothes. The Champagne itself is notable for its Diam seal and its lovely citrus pith phenolics.

Shobbrook Syrah 2010

2012-02-12T21:51:00.003+08:00

Seppeltsfield, Barossa, South Australia. Shiraz. 14.5%. Cork (unexpected). Approx $A55

Dense and deep. Seductive and spiced, if it is possible for a wine to smell like Christmas, this is it. Chocolate, mocha, meat and something sour edged and Balsamic. It promises so much. . . Juicy and tart in the mouth, the unkind might say the acids are like a nail scraped on blackboard, they certainly stick out and the shape from such a tight corset seems unnatural. Pepper and an edge of green in the mouth, I tried hard to like this but could not.

Image: A wino and his laser pointer.

Bress Harcourt Valley Cider Brut

2012-02-09T21:02:00.001+08:00

Yarra Valley, Victoria. 10%. Crown seal. Approx $A20 for 750ml bottle.

Delicious and complex. At first and with the bubbles it smells of gum and confection. I'm sure this is not just a framing error. Green apple, sour dough, blue vein cheese and the faintest suggestion of metal. As it reaches room temperature citrus and ginger, though perhaps now I'm paying it too much attention. Well weighted and substantial in the mouth, it's curious how a wine of equivalent alcohol content would feel like a feather. . .

Custard Cider

2012-02-07T06:32:00.003+08:00

Donnybrook, Western Australia. 4.5%. Approx $A4.20/bottle.

The Original is pleasingly golden and turbid, the bottle has a hand written best by (28/7/12) date on the back. I'm learning to accept what I would find a taint if it were in a glass of wine; it smells of mouse and horse and sticking plaster, and yet it brings a smile to my face as a sniff and gulp and think of Amelia mixing mustard.

The unpictured Scrumpy lives till May and is a shade lighter and less overtly microbial. Being a scrumpy it is sans carbon dioxide and a touch heavier at 6%. It's easier to enjoy with its lime and apple and cordial profile. I think the sweetness is better balanced with acid and it seems less of a caricature.

Moo

2012-02-06T10:52:00.000+08:00

There is much wiser comment about these Tasmanian craft beers to be found, I just wanted to take a photo of my daughter's balsa wood cow. I was once more catholic when it came to alcoholic beverages, but now with a middle aged liver to nurse I tend to limit myself to wine, and even then, an increasingly narrow selection.

Knappstein Enterprise Cabernet 1998

2012-02-05T21:45:00.001+08:00

Clare Valley, South Australia. Cabernet sauvignon, Malbec 3%. Cork. Cellar.

Last tried as a 9 year old, this seems unchanged. It still smells and feels like a Clare red. It's sharp with blackcurrant, eucalyptus and bay leaf. There is something bushy and burnt and in the mouth it is momentarily soft before gripping, hard tannins appear and remain. Packaged in a slightly longer bottle, it has been banished from my 14 degree wine cabinet for being the wrong shape, I imagine I can taste the effect of the last five summers, that suggestion of sweetness and honeyed softness, but mostly it's sinew and those iron filing tannins. Till 2018 and beyond.

A recipe for lamb

2012-02-04T22:48:00.000+08:00

A leg of lamb (2kg) stabbed (x30) and then rubbed with a marinade of spring onions (5), garlic (4), juniper berries (12), mint (handful), olive oil (2 tbs) and salt. Roasted (200 degrees C, 60 minutes), rested and served with a salsa of charred, peeled, seeded and chopped green capsicum (3) and red chillies (4), fresh mint leaves (handful), spring onions (2), tomatoes (2 large), lime juice (1), olive oil and salt flakes.

Wine? Lamb + Mint + Three members of the nightshade family + Corn = Cabernet

Source.

Les Heritiers du Comte Lafon Macon Milly Lamartine 2009

2012-02-02T21:45:00.003+08:00

Macon, France. Chardonnay. 13%. Cork. Approx $A47.

Spotted today with two of its slightly more expensive siblings. Not surprisingly this is bright and primary, with flint and stone and a prickle of sulphur. Grilled peach and ripe pineapple set the tone and despite the initial suggestion of mineral this is no lapidary wine. Rounded and fleshy in mouth with almond meal, marzipan and sweet slightly spiced oak.

Serendipity - Looking for saffron and chorizo for paella and finding a bottle of wine by a favourite producer. . .

Petaluma Coonawara 2000

2012-01-30T21:57:00.000+08:00

12 years is not a long time to live, but I've slept rough, at the feet of a wino, under a desk laden with books and wires, corks and bottles. In a box with strangers I've been waiting. . . I still smell of blackcurrant and herbs and the warmth of my birth year is obvious. But I've grown soft and enveloping and in my readiness to please and be pleased, I've lost my corset of tannins and the parts that were once tight have started to wobble.

Razlyubit - The Russian word for love that has now stopped. Just ask any failing politician with poor opinion polls what it feels like. That feeling that you can do no right and all your flaws and badly received attempts at reaching out become a source of loathing, pity and annoyance.

A wine blogger and his desk

2012-01-29T15:29:00.000+08:00

Three metres by one, with a dividing wall of books, partially electrified by various cables, which in turn are covered in papers. A source periodic territorial dispute. The wine blogger's half is populated with spent bottles, corks and pieces of foil. I dare not sniff, my nose would fill with dust. . . It reminds me a crime scene, almost all the evidence is there, though the wine, the protagonist, the one with the most information has long left the scene. Notebooks and scraps of paper, meaningless scribble. . . a cloudy green stone, a lush bursting mushroom, tea leaves chocolate and honey. . . what nonsense, what a mess. . . Three cameras, a printer and laptop, a pile of bills and receipts, keys and a calico bag containing my remaining pair of egg pants. Pens and ink, elastic bands, dictionaries, cook books and novels; everywhere paper. Stones and and feathers, a bag of salt, steroid cream for my eczema, an unused prayer mat; ideas and thoughts floating on teak and all covered by a fine sprinkling of dust.

Domaine Lucci Sauvignon blanc 2011

2012-01-28T22:00:00.001+08:00

Adelaide Hills, South Australia. Sauvignon blanc. 12.5%. Diam. Approx $A25.

Last year I tried a trio of pinot noir (1,2,3) from the maker, all interesting wines with distinctive labels and personalities, though once on the tongue they all seemed fleeting and momentary in their appeal. Far more pleasure tonight; a 42 degree (107 F) day, fresh garlic (and basil) from the garden for home made pesto and some new tchotchke to use as props. . . A crooked and busy label and inside something delicious.

Flint and citrus blossom, it seems restrained, though most likely it's too frigid. . . In time the whole cast of players appears - melon, guava, grass, sap, garden weeds, vanilla bean and less typically crushed stones. . . It seems too tart, angular and sharp, but with food, warmth and habituation I can feel more texture and thickness, it's quite savoury; though to end it remains verdant and brightly sappy. Yes.

Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs

2012-01-26T23:33:00.004+08:00

le Mesnil-sur-Ogers, France. Chardonnay. 12%. Cork. Approx $A85

Quite delicious and certainly more pleasing than just about any other equivalently priced Champagne I can recall. Made by a co-op of growers from grapes growing in esteemed soil, this is layered and complex; the nose is all sour dough, mushrooms and citrus, while in the mouth it's beauty is clear. A superb blend of length, texture and fruit.

Léon Desfrièches et fils Le Père Jules 2008

2012-01-24T21:53:00.000+08:00

Normandy, France. 5%. Cork. Approx $A20.

A Tuesday, where the temperature reached 38.7 degrees C. It is possible that this might be the week's coolest day. Six of the next seven are forecast to reach 40 degrees or more. . . The most sensible liquid to consume is water (or beer) and the idea of wine, even for a hard core wino with a plate of of Chinatown roast pork for dinner, became suddenly and strangely unappealing. Thankfully I tend to be over prepared for most situations, and a bottle of vintage cider proved to be particularly suited to the heat and the pork. A cloudy orange this smells alive and full of bruised apples, mouse droppings and mushrooms. The funk was perfect foil for the pork which still carried the taste and scent of the yard.

Mr. Riggs Shiraz 2004

2012-01-23T04:09:00.000+08:00

First a superb 9 year old Riesling. The 2003 Seppelt Drumborg (12% Victoria. Screwcap) - there is a distinct, but fleeting note of fennel and the faintest whiff of petroleum; overwhelmingly though, it is citrus blossom. It's bright, tart and the shape is not marred by the bitterness of age. Which is something I found, along with a metal and spritzig, in the preceding bottle of the 2002 Ferngrove Cossack.

The Riggs Shiraz which I was perhaps a little too effusive about 5 years ago, is still delicious and surprisingly fresh. I had images of its hefty 15% body aging poorly. . . A cool resting place has kept the wine, if not the label almost new. . . Its rich, sweet and laden with the scent and taste of coffee and chocolate. A wine with no lines, only generous curves. It certainly showed better than the slightly older 2002 Turkey Flat Shiraz, coming from a warmer cellar (brother in law) this was diffuse and Porty with some DMS on the nose and no structure, only sweet surrender in the mouth.

If

2012-01-22T16:09:00.006+08:00

you accept the idea proposed by Heraclitus, that it is impossible to step into the same river twice, then it is easy to accept the notion that no two wines are ever the same. Take these twins, separated at birth. The darker and presumably more mature bottle has been cellaring in the warmth of my study. It's 27.5 degrees C today. The fairer twin has been kept at a constant 14 degrees.

A white bean and chorizo salad

2012-01-20T18:08:00.001+08:00

An improvised salad made from pantry and fridge ingredients.

For the pan:
half an onion - segmented and fried in olive oil till golden.
a few cloves of diced garlic - tossed in seconds before the chorizo.
a roughly chopped uncured chorizo sausage - left in the pan with onions and garlic till cooked.
one tin of drained and rinsed cannellini beans - added right at the end to take on flavour and heat. Once done transfer to a serving plate.

For the serving plate:
1 small handful of fresh parsley and basil - chopped.
1-2 medium tomatoes roughly chopped - toss the herbs and tomato into the cooked beans and serve.

la Battistina Gavi 2010

2012-01-19T22:05:00.000+08:00

Gavi, Piedmont. Cortese. 12%. Cork. Source: Gift

Who needs a number out of 100 when you can add a half smile to an egg wearing pants. . . Textured and slippery with a twist of citrus pith bitterness and a pleasing and lingering suggestion of stonefruit. I tried to recreate a sense of place by grilling some swordfish and making a simple salad of white beans, despite all this I'm sure this would taste better in some cheap and bustling ristorante overlooking the Ligurian sea. It's that sort of wine. . .

Bindi Block 5 Pinot noir

2012-01-17T19:51:00.006+08:00

Macedon, Victoria, Australia. Pinot noir. 13.5%. Diam. Source: Cellar.

I liked this so much when I first tried it, I've been reluctant to open another bottle. What if it fell short of expectations? Like the books and films I liked when I was a younger man, would it fail to impress an older and somewhat wizened palate. . .

I think this is my penultimate bottle and thankfully it is still delicious and likely to reward additional patience. Crimson and bright, the nose is fresh and the palate pert. New world in accent, but with layers and complexity suggesting far away horizons. Now for the shopping list - perfume and petals (rose), raspberries, stems and earth. Lovely and bright in the mouth, a momentary suggestion of cola and ginger spice but overwhelmingly softness and plush creamy velvet. Till 2017.

An alcohol free day

2012-01-15T13:49:00.004+08:00

Till recently, I had never noticed the small floret, seemingly carved into the base of each mangosteen. A small and beautiful gesture, like a birthmark, present in the flower and becoming relatively smaller as the fruit expands and darkens.

Huet Le Haut-Lieu Vouvray 2007

2012-01-12T22:58:00.005+08:00

Loire, France. Chenin blanc. 13%. Cork. Approx $A65.

A day of strange fruit, once exotic spices and beautiful wine. To start a few hasty sips of the 2011 Grosset Springvale Riesling. In passing it resembles the Johnno Semillon - that sensation of powder, fluffiness and flowers, though there is more grip and the back half is flavoured with slightly bitter citrus pith. The Huet is nominally dry (sec) and as you would expect of something exquisite it is hard to adequately capture. It feels sweet, but the the final sensation, long after the wine has left the mouth is of dry river stones and a lingering sting of bright acidity. It smells as you might expect, musk, mustard fruit, a puff of sulfur. . . it's electric in the mouth, that impressions of sweetness - strongest at the beginning (could it have been the preceding wine) is soon replaced by minerals and under ripe stonefruit - that suggestion of green and sap cut with intense acidity not yet attenuated with age and sugar. 93+ Now - 2022

Penfolds Bin 09A Chardonnay 2009

2012-01-10T22:01:00.002+08:00

Adelaide Hills, South Australia. Chardonnay. 12%. Screwcap. Approx $A75.

After a series of flabby and overweight chardonnay, something tight, pert and rapier like. . . Match stick (and curry leaf), flint, nutmeg, ground ginger and mustard fruit. Lean and citric in the mouth, the notable thing is the acidity, precision and feel of smooth and rolling river stones. It's succulent, bright and quite exemplary. A shape shifter wine, moving from svelte and erect to cream and flesh (and antipodean sweetness) as it warms. Terrific length and poise, like the 07A this is quite superb. 95. Now - 2017+

Image: Margaret River stones and worry beads. . .

Toolangi Reserve Chardonnay 2007

2012-01-08T20:32:00.002+08:00

Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia. Chardonnay. 14.2%. Screwcap. Approx $A65.

I spent the afternoon sniffing at curry leaves, my mother in law has a pair of small trees growing unsupervised in her front yard and I'm fond of the scent. It's something I detect every now and then in the wine I'm tasting. . .

Pale gold and smelling of flint and coincidentally, curry leaf. Smoke and grilled stone fruit, a prickle of white pepper. Slightly sweet in the mouth, it's fleshy, expansive and full. Being less catholic and forgiving in my tastes, this seems overweight and over done. Butterscotch, toffee with burnt edges, ground ginger. A spectrum of notable sensations, but the sum seems less than the parts.

Shorts

2012-01-05T12:21:00.006+08:00

However, this bottle was not marked 'poison', so Alice ventured to taste it, and finding it very nice (it had, in fact, a sort of mixed flavour of cherry-tart, custard, pine-apple, roast turkey, and hot buttered toast), she very soon finished it off.

Brokenwood Semillon 2008. Pale with a modest nose and slightly grassy and green bean in the mouth. Fresh and bright, presumably this is not a keeper.

Lucien Albrecht Riesling Vendanges Tardives 2002. The blackened cork is pictured and the top of the bottle sticky under the foil. Golden and gleaming - the nose rich with honey, musk and rose petal. Tea leaf and botrytis and a lovely balance of sweetness and acidity. The only dilemma is when and where to open such a bottle. Tasted with North Eastern Thai food this was superb, it would be less complementary with just about anything else.

Torbreck The Juveniles 2002. A usually early drinking GMS blend - this was surprisingly fresh and alive. Tasted blind I called it a Cabernet (and a Tasmanian one at that) - fooled by the sweetness and blackcurrant like confection. There is nothing more deceptive than an obvious fact.

Bouchard Beaune Teurons 2005. Laden with spice, this was delicious but in fairness it would be a hard pick with your eyes closed. Cinnamon and anise I passed it to my wife seeking corroboration and with a mixture of boredom and resignation she reported she could smell nothing. . . Bright and svelte the tannins are beautiful - a combination of fine granularity and a ripple of firmness. Modest in price and proportion this is wonderful for guilt free pleasure.

The frame I'm in

2012-01-04T04:14:00.003+08:00

It seems like a while since my insomnia has coincided with a desire to record my thoughts. A combination of overeating (Indian), caffeine (Hush in Fremantle) and atmospheric disturbance. The lightning has been multifocal and the thunder like a ten pin bowlers strike in reverse. An interrupted peel of applause followed by a long rolling rumble. Like my study chair across floorboards. That's the frame I'm in. . .

Later today of course it will be a struggle at work. My concentration will wander. Insomnia and school holidays at home will do that. . . If I were elsewhere and free of work, my mind would be intent on absorbing the new and old. I would write (more) and reflect, but I'm at home and it is my far away siblings and in-laws who have returned home. The recent days have been a combination of gluttony, chaos and the familiar.

There has been even more wine consumed than usual, but I've been inattentive. My fleeting focus is enough only to register that the liquid I'm drinking is vinous and of moderate scent, medium texture and minimal impact. Perhaps this is how a wine show judge feels after a few days of speed tasting. That's the frame I'm in. . .

To compensate and protect the precious (bottles) from my hopefully temporary lack of concentration I'm drinking what I already know. . . The Bindi Original seems less remarkable, while the Tyrrell's Johnno remains light and fluffy, but strangely less electric. . .

Image: A frame I constructed a few days ago from 2x4. It will eventually form a block to lift a small painting. . . I wish it were perfectly rectangular.

Arroz negro

2012-01-02T08:46:00.000+08:00

My first, partially successful attempt at this classic dish. My unpictured rice was not black enough, presumably I need to use more ink or less rice next time. . .

A baseline recipe (for a 30 cm paella pan):

5 cups of fish stock - I used one based on left over prawn heads, fish and squid off cuts.
1 medium white onion - finely diced
3 cloves of garlic - finely diced
2 tomatoes - halved and grated
2 tablespoons of tomato paste
500g of cleaned squid - cut into 1 inch squares and tentacles trimmed
16g of squid ink (4x4gm packets)
500g Bomba rice
Parsley to garnish

How?

I wanted the only textures to be rice and squid, which is why there is one additional and perhaps superfluous step with the sofrito.

Starting with the onion, garlic and tomato - fry the finely chopped onions in olive oil, in the paella pan at medium heat for 10 minutes or so. The onion should be translucent and just starting to colour at the edges. Add the garlic and continue for a few more minutes, then add the grated tomato and paste. Cook for a few minutes, then remove from the pan and blend into a paste with a stab blender. Return this to the paella pan and heat till bubbling. Now add the squid and shortly there after the ink and rice. Stir and mix what is in the pan, so there is a homogeneous level of black and then add the stock (which has been heated in another pot so it is close to boiling), until the rice is well covered, for my pan this was about 1.2 litres. Cook like any other paella - for approx 20 minutes before garnishing with parsley and resting under foil or paper for 5 minutes before serving.

Cascina Chicco Barolo Rocche di Castelletto 2007

2012-01-01T15:37:00.001+08:00

Piedmont, Italy. Nebbiolo. 14.5%. Cork. Gift.

Tasted after a tart trio of Champagne I found this initially irresistible. The weight, the structure, the depth. . . The scent is deep and enticing, but anything to do with fruit or place is shrouded in a fog of oak; with pen in hand and brain coming into focus I've scribbled non specific and generically modern. Slightly broad and extremely approachable in attack before those wonderful hard tannins. It made the night's next wine, an Australian Shiraz, seem confected and flabby.

Unrelated housekeeping: 2011 consumption - 54% Australian: 23% French: 7% NZ: Italy 5%

2012

2012-01-01T14:46:00.002+08:00

and may all your eggs hatch. . .

NYE

2011-12-31T13:35:00.001+08:00

Inspired by all the dodgy listed companies, who release their financial accounts on the very last day allowable and often at the close of trading; I've decided to publish some incomplete wino sapien posts, which I've been sitting on for some months (see below). The images are all from this calender year and the text even more truncated than usual. I'm spending the final day of 2011 cooking a meal for my extended family. Pomegranates will feature heavily and I dare say a few bottles will be opened for inspection. . .

Belacan

2011-12-31T12:50:00.003+08:00

the year's smelliest ingredient. . .

Last year's.

Favourite things

2011-12-31T12:30:00.000+08:00

Julian Barnes - And does history repeat itself, the first time as tragedy, the second time as farce? No, that's too grand, too considered a process. History just burps, and we taste again that raw onion sandwich it swallowed centuries ago.

C.S. Lewis - You read to enlarge yourself, you write to preserve yourself.

Robin Williams - God gave man both a penis and brain, but unfortunately not enough blood supply to run both at the same time.

Related.

Drift wood

2011-12-31T12:16:00.003+08:00

Another place and another time, but the lines and curves made me think of a Singaporean train station. . .

Stadium MTR

2011-12-31T12:10:00.003+08:00

I disembarked and spent a lazy and solitary 15 minutes admiring the curves of the Stadium MTR. Which of course meant that when I finally made my destination my ticket was voided. . . Presumably the authorities don't expect people to meander.

Alcatraz?

2011-12-31T12:03:00.004+08:00

Part of a larger family of Macaques who managed to escape from their enclosure at the Singapore Zoo. Even in captivity there is hope. . .

10 pieces

2011-12-29T21:47:00.004+08:00

of exquisite chocolate, hand made here in Perth, purchased for the princely sum of twenty nine dollars. . . 110 grams of sweet delight, each piece beautiful to behold and delicately and intricately flavoured. For someone who finds easy pleasure in most commercially produced chocolate, $29 is a lot to pay for such a small portion. . . Could it be the vinous equivalent of buying a bottle of Grand cru Burgundy for someone content to to drink Jacobs Creek?

Seppelt St Peters Shiraz 2000

2011-12-28T06:13:00.000+08:00

Great Western, Victoria, Australia. Shiraz. 13%. Cork. Source: Cellar

I've had a pair of disappointing 8- 10 year old shiraz based wines in the last few days from my brother in law's cellar. One corked, the other cooked and generally lacking in definition. Time then to revisit some wines, to see if my patience has been warranted or in vain. . .

Mature and heavy with scent. Leather, stewed mulberries, five spice and meat. A Chinese BBQ? It invitingly rich, warm and cuddly. Mouth filling and softened while still having a Balsamic like intensity and an opening and fleeting hint of honey. Spiced and firm, the structure feels clean (and not Brett derived) and the length is exemplary. This is a wine of maturity which still gives the impression of movement, flow and most importantly life. 91. Now - 2017.

Image: North West Coastal Hwy from The Pilbara project.

Burn Cottage Pinot noir 2010

2011-12-27T06:06:00.001+08:00

Central Otago, New Zealand. Pinot noir. 13.7%. Cork. Approx $A90.

It's different from the previous vintage, but still clearly from the same cloth. Lighter and perhaps more confection like, it also seems less immediately alluring and sensual, while still suffering the same fate in the glass. It seems to decay and rapidly lose its prettiness and scent. Smoke and cherry, flint and flowers, though by nights end it is more cola, earth and rosewood. Momentarily zippy and pert, it still reminds me of flat cola; rounded, slightly sweet with a streak of char.

Three gifts

2011-12-26T10:10:00.006+08:00

Safety rule #3 for the X-mini capsule speaker - take note that this speaker is not edible and should not be placed in your mouth.

Burning love.

Ferran Adria's - The Family Meal. Is quite apart from any other cookbook I own. The recipes are in clusters of three; relatively simple but indulgent meal plans for a family. The opening page for each trio of recipes has a picture of ingredients, each dish, with its constituents lined up in a row, to the right there is a time line with tasks. It's obsessional and precise. I like it. The recipe for each individual dish is a storyboard of photos with bubble captions - which of course means there are lot of superfluous pictures of garlic being chopped or sugar being spooned into a pan, but the overall impact is televisual and groundbreaking.

Domaine A Cabernet sauvignon 2005

2011-12-26T07:33:00.002+08:00

Coal River, Tasmania, Australia. Cabernet sauvignon. 13%. Cork. Approx $A60.

Like its less esteemed Stoney Vineyard sibling this has a prominent nose and a supple body. Cassis and more cassis. It's bright and clear, slightly sweet before fine firm tannins. It's lovely, pliant and long, but it seems overly straightforward and simple. 91. Now - 2020.

Wantirna Estate Amelia Cabernet Merlot 2009

2011-12-24T22:34:00.003+08:00

Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia. Cabernet sauvignon, Merlot. 12.7%. Diam. Gift.

And so the Holiday drinking begins. . . First a few glasses of the Eric Rodez Cuvee des Grand Vintages (Ambonnay. 1993, 1995, 1996, 1998, 1999, 2000 & 2002. Approx $105). Pale gold, sour dough, bruised apple and peanut skins. Beautiful length with a honeyed note of maturity in the mouth. Pinot dominant, gripping but slightly bowed, this may not please all.

The pictured Wantirna Amelia is delicious, brisk and relatively petite. Violet, cherry, plum and freshly stewed berries (mulberry and blackberry); any blackcurrant is in the background, along with stems, earth and the odd gum leaf. It's beautifully perfumed and not surprisingly for such a young wine, it is bursting with vitality and energy. Bright and juicy in the mouth, it is so approachable I suspect most bottles will not make old bones. Fine, firm and varietally dry, there is a touch of earth and dark chocolate to end. 91-93. Now - 2021.

Two more sleeps

2011-12-23T10:10:00.002+08:00

and time to thank all the kind souls who have shown an interest in Wino sapien. I hope you all have a lovely, peaceful and very merry Christmas.

It's hard to believe this is the sixth Christmas since I began; there have been changes and some maturation, a better camera, clearer pictures, my tasting notes still need some work, while the wines I've been tasting have become more diverse and reflective of a partly satisfied curiosity. My tendency for being a serial enthusiast continues unabated, this year a dip into the food of Morocco and the Levant and perhaps as a consequence of a few too many chickpeas I've rediscovered the joy and middle aged necessity of skipping - the whirl and whirr of rope and that fleeting moment of synchronization.

Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino 2005

2011-12-22T21:59:00.005+08:00

Montalicino, Tuscany, Italy. Sangiovese. 14.5%. Cork. Approx $A55.

Three sleeps from Christmas and a mostly languid day punctuated by the occasionally retail skirmish to obtain produce. Prawns, salmon and of course small goods. . . Work seems a distant memory and the most pressing task for the day was the construction of Gingerbread houses and homemade pizza for dinner. Brunello with it's savoury edge and firm tannins must be close to the ideal match. . .

Generously proportioned, you can feel the weight. . . the wimp in me wonders several times whether this would be better if it were slightly more gracile. . . Tobacco and cherry, leather and aniseed scented small goods. It smells of meat and ink and for the most part it is clean. Ripe and full, a fleeting suggestion of raisin before becoming more characteristically firm, savoury and leafy. 89 - 91. Now - 2015+

McHenry Hohnen Calgardup Brook Chardonnay 2010

2011-12-20T21:22:00.003+08:00

Margaret River, Western Australia. Chardonnay. 13.5%. Screwcap. Approx $A35.

I first tried this two months ago, at the cellar door, a 30ml taster which reminded me of blood orange and pith, though of course it tasted of much more and any suggestion of orange was fleeting at best. Imprecise and hasty impressions. . . Tonight with whole bottle and hours instead of minutes, I wish I could say that my words have more exactitude. It's more powerful and textured than I recall, with the obligatory strike of flint and match stick. Citrus and grilled pineapple on the nose, while in the mouth a suggestion of river stones and once again blood orange and pith.

Unrelated image: A Barking owl with insomnia.

Pierro Chardonnay 2009

2011-12-15T22:04:00.003+08:00

Margaret River, Western Australia. Chardonnay. 14%. Screwcap. Approx $A65.

The quality and appeal are obvious, but even so, I'm not sure I'd want to drink something like this too often; big bones and dangerous curves, it's delicious, but only in small doses. I had thought from previous encounters that the Pierro chardonnay was getting slimmer and tighter, but I concede that my recollection may have been wrong; looking back at my other tasting notes it is clear that the 2009 is from the same heavy cloth and that my tastes are fickle. Flint, struck match, smoke. . . mustard fruit, white peach, ginger and fig. It's complex and layered and slightly hard work. . . the acidity is wonderfully bright and there are flashes of green bean and citrus, but the dominant theme seems to be a richly textured creamy vanilla nougat; it is as it sounds, mouth filling and somewhat confected.

Day 1

2011-12-15T13:08:00.004+08:00

of school holidays. . . only 46 days to go.

Image: Mango, Banana apple and berry, mixed berry.

Related.

Lake's Folly Chardonnay 2010

2011-12-13T19:23:00.004+08:00

Hunter Valley, NSW, Australia. Chardonnay. 13.5%. Screwcap. Approx $A60.

Fleshy and slightly sweet, it tastes uncoiled and abundant. Flint and peach skin, a prickle and bustle to the nose along with haystacks and spiced oak. Broad, rich and sweeter than expected; an anachronism. Butterscotch and cream in the mouth, the strands of acidity are just holding things together. A two to three year proposition. 90.

Image: One day on from the wettest Summer's day I can recall.

Lucien Albrecht Clos Himmerlreich 2004

2011-12-13T06:52:00.000+08:00

Alsace, France. Riesling. 13%. Cork (half stained). Approx $A55

Both wine and beans were bought on a whim. . . my mostly intended purchases had been made and cash in hand, I was at the point of departure, magpie eyes spotted both, a day and a city apart. The beans are less pleasing and confronting than hoped for, the flavours are there, but only in passing.

The wine is very interesting. Off dry. Golden, though certainly not beautiful or poised, it smells of glue and acetone at times, and there is to my nose and tongue, a reasonable dose of botrytis. Ginger spice and toast, citrus pith; can a wine smell and taste burnished? A tart and linear attack with mineral and flint; though a sip and moment later there is a rim of sweetness and weight which only seems to heighten the intensity.

Slow reading and drinking

2011-12-12T06:02:00.000+08:00

I started reading A History of the World in 101/2 Chapters over a week ago, and normally for a modestly proportioned book of a few more than 300 pages, I would be done. Instead I'm lingering and intentionally going slow; often reading a paragraph and then wandering off, dwelling and ruminating on the beauty and ease of the words and the ideas contained. It manages to be amusing and simultaneously rich in meaning and imagery; and like all excellent books, it's something I want to prolong and absorb. Of course there's pleasure to be had in reading something simple and shallow, just as there is enjoyment in wines that are direct and carefree, but surely a mark of vinous and literary excellence, is the desire to go slow and to luxuriate in the beauty and nuance.

Want

2011-12-11T10:37:00.003+08:00

but don't need.

In the approach to Christmas, it seems like every winery and retailer I have ever bought wine from, has tried to call me to hock their wares. Perhaps it is a sign of harder economic times or perhaps that I have been too free and easy with my contact details. . . I have enough, more than enough wine and associated paraphernalia; a cupboard full of decanters, a drawer of corkscrews and various wine sleeves. The unkind, though perceptive might call it all tchotchke. . . Despite this abundance, I was and remain tempted by the pictured Cool Breather.

You tube video.

Bass Phillip Crown Prince 2009

2011-12-07T23:11:00.003+08:00

Two glasses from two different cork sealed bottles of the same wine. Separated by minutes, both were similar and yet notably different. The scent of each was clearly apart; the first having more rubber and citrus peel, the second was prettier, though less aromatically wild and free. . . How am I to write something applicable to both. . . Preferring the first, which seemed to have an edge of reduction, I'd assume this was closed with a better seal. Mushroom and rubber and a prickle of dried citrus peel; this smells wild and untamed, the stems have a trace of char and this seems closer in character to the previous Bass Phillip wines I've tried. Quite tart and sinewy in the mouth, it's penetrating and shapely without being indelible. 92. Now - 2016.

The mostly unrelated image: A Margaret River rooster and some of his wives.

Harira

2011-12-06T21:05:00.005+08:00

Physically and mentally distant from Morocco, I suspect my attempt at this classic dish has the wrong emphasis, looking at various pictures on the web, I can see there is a little too much meat and the consistency is closer to stew than soup. . .

Ingredients:

3 tablespoons of olive oil
3 celery stalks - diced
3 small onions - chopped
2 large carrots - diced
3 cloves of garlic - chopped
1.5 tablespoons of cumin - partially ground in mortar
600g of lamb - cubed
3 teaspoons of turmeric
3 teaspoons of paprika
2 teaspoons of ground cinnamon
2 bay leaves
3 tablespoons of tomato paste
3 cups of chicken stock
1 cup of water
Salt flakes and pepper
1 x 400g tin of diced tomatoes
1 x 400g tin of chickpeas - drained
100g of puy lentils - rinsed
1 handful each of coriander and flat leaf parsley

How? Roughly dice the onions, celery and carrots and then start to fry these off in a pan splashed with olive oil. While the mirepoix is cooking and the onions approaching translucency dice the lamb, sort the garlic, cumin and locate the other ingredients. When the onion is starting to colour add the meat, garlic, cumin and the remaining spices and bay leaf. Let the lamb seal, then add the tomato paste, stock and water and bring to a gentle simmer. Cover and cook for about 60 minutes. At this point add the tinned tomatoes, the rinsed lentils and the chickpeas. Cook for a further 30-40 minutes and then add the fresh herbs at the last moment, stirring to incorporate.

In keeping with the cultural origins of the dish, I had an alcohol free day. . . Though I was thinking how good this would have been with a glass of Cabernet.

I ate it with some Butternut pumpkin and caramelized onions. . . Peel and half a 1kg pumpkin, remove the seeds and then cut into 1 inch half moons. Place the pumpkin in a roasting tray with half a cup of water and roast (at 200 degrees C), uncovered with 40 minutes. Prepare the onion topping concurrently. Quarter 4 small onions and fry in a few tablespoons of olive oil at low - medium heat. As the onions start to colour toss in 6-7 cloves of garlic that have been slightly squashed, along with a few handfuls of blanched and peeled almonds. Stir occasionally until the onion is partly caramelized (15-20 minutes). Remove from the heat and now toss in 2 handfuls of craisins (less sweet and more tart than raisins) a few tablespoons of honey and 1-2 teaspoons of ground cinnamon. When the pumpkin has been cooked for 40 minutes or so, top with the onion mixture, add a little more water if needed, and return to the oven for a final 5 - 10 minutes. Remove and while this is still oven hot sprinkle with a handful of chopped mint and toss.

Image: An unexpectedly wet and thundery Summer's day.

Ad Hoc Wall Flower Riesling 2011

2011-12-04T19:17:00.005+08:00

Great Southern, Western Australia. Riesling. 11.5%. Screwcap. Approx $A25

Delicious and direct, the citrus is joined by flavours and scent that verge on the tropical, and like the previous vintages this is punchy, gripping and slightly salty. . . I do recall this received high praise in Halliday's top 100 (was it 95 points). . . though I also recall a disclaimer about his use of a variety of scales. Presumably there's a scale for each grape and each price point which to me only lessens my faith in numbers. I still accept that a numerical score is a shorthand comment on quality and perhaps because I'm male and have a short attention span a high score from someone I respect, does increase my interest; though increasingly I can see that it is a tool that is misused and misunderstood.

Image: wine bottle with a puddle of non Newtonian fluid

Fish kefta

2011-12-04T18:38:00.005+08:00

I'm slowly working through my wish list of Moroccan recipes. Today spiced fish balls, made from fillets purchased from one of those peculiar road side vendors of frozen fish. . .

Ingredients:

450g of white fish fillets - I used snapper, which I cut into 1cm cubes
1 tablespoon of Harissa paste (to make 5 tbs - blend 6-8 chillies - fresh or dried and rehydrated, 1 teaspoon each of ground cumin and coriander, 2 cloves of garlic and 4 tbs of olive oil)
1/2 preserved lemon rind - finely diced
1 large handful of coriander leaves - roughly chopped
1 pinch saffron soaked in 1 tablespoon of warm water
1 tablespoon of honey
1 egg - beaten
1 cup of fresh breadcrumbs
salt / pepper
Flour for dusting

How? Combine the first 9 ingredients and mix together and then form small, 50 ml balls (the average supermarket egg is 60mls) and set aside. Just before you are ready to eat, coat them in flour and then deep fry in a few inches of cooking oil, till golden. Rest and then serve with a slate dry Riesling.

The dominant flavours are the preserved lemons and harissa. I suspect an ice cold beer and a slice of lemon would be more sensible. . .

Mountadam High Eden Chardonnay 2009

2011-12-03T06:18:00.001+08:00

Eden Valley, South Australia. Riesling. 14%. Screwcap. Approx $A35.

Like the previous iteration this has a similar emphasis, with plenty of weight, depth and creaminess. It's rapidly becoming a stylistic outlier with its malolactic curves and fuller proportions. Looking at my previous tasting note, I'm not sure I've more to add. . . Butterscotch and cream, flint, struck match and nettle. For a moment I could smell hay, but perhaps it was the surrounds - a warm Summer evening and picnic on the grass. . . Peach skins, grilled fruit and an indulgent wobble of flesh in the mouth. A touch sweet, rich, full and concentrated; if a wine could be unapologetic, this is it.

KT Peglidis Riesling 2011

2011-12-02T06:12:00.000+08:00

Peglidis Vineyard, Watervale, Clare, South Australia. Riesling. 12%. Screwcap. Approx $A35.

210 cases made. It smells of lavender and lime, slate and citrus blossom. Perhaps it's autosuggestion or more likely inebriation, but as I sniff I can feel the texture and grip. . . The line is beautiful, straight and long and the intensity and mineral edge is accompanied and juxtaposed by the surprisingly viscous and mouth filling texture of the wine. A Riesling of tension and poise. 95. Now - 2021+.

Dinner

2011-12-01T21:08:00.003+08:00

The original recipe calls for poussin but I used thighs and made some minor modifications.

Ingredients:

4 chicken maryland pieces
6 small dried chillies - soaked in boiling water for 1 minute
5 shallots
3 cloves of garlic
2cm piece of ginger root
2cm piece of galangal
3 stalks of lemon grass
270ml tin of coconut milk
1 lime
Salt.

How?

Trim the chicken pieces of excess fat.
Make a paste by blending the chilli, shallots, garlic, ginger, galangal and one cleaned stem of lemon grass, and half a cup of water.
Rub 2/3 of the paste onto the chicken. Take the second lemon grass stem and bruise and tear into strips and add this the coated chicken.
Take the remaining paste and add to a pan along with the coconut milk and the final stalk of lemon grass. Bring to a boil and stir occasionally until it is reduced by half. Cool and then add to the chicken. Sprinkle with salt and let the meat rest in the paste and coconut milk for a few hours.
50 minutes before you are ready to eat, turn on the grill (220 degrees C) and work on the Rojak salad and white rice.
Grill the chicken - skin side down for 15 minutes (let it colour) and turn the thighs and grill for a further 15 minutes so it is suitably brown and crisp.
Squeeze the juice of one lime into the baking pan and spoon the cooking sauces over chicken and rice.

Spring Vale Gewürztraminer 2010

2011-11-30T22:47:00.002+08:00

Freycinet Coast, Tasmania, Australia. Gewürztraminer. 13.5%. Screwcap. Approx $A33.

On the last day of Spring. . .

Convincing and delicious and quite possibly the best local Gewürztraminer I can recall having. A beautiful and bountiful nose of lychee, spice and slate, while in the mouth the texture, flesh and persistent flavours of lychee and rambutan, are capably corseted by fine acidity. It manages to be exuberant without losing its shape. 90-92. Now - 2014.

Robert Bowen Sauvignon blanc 2010

2011-11-27T09:39:00.003+08:00

Pemberton, Western Australia. Sauvignon blanc. 13.5%. Screwcap. Approx $A25

I don't drink as much pure Sauvignon as I once did, though I do recall that it, along with Gewürztraminer were the first white grapes that I could understand and pick in a blind tasting. Perhaps this easiness and directness made me drift away in search of something harder to understand. . .

Green bean, guava, gooseberry and melon; a tropical and exuberant fruit salad cut with a sense of immediacy and freshness. The wine making tricks are not discernible on the nose, but in the mouth the tracks and lines are clear. Oak, new and old (Russian and Hungarian), prolonged contact with lees, part MLF - all of these are notable, like black ink on white canvas. Though the whole is pleasing, there is a notable transition from fruit to maker. A curious wine, which I liked. 90. Now - 2014.

Tabbouleh

2011-11-24T21:52:00.005+08:00

One fiddle too many. I decided to substitute the burghul for quinoa, thinking the texture and taste would be similar. . . Burghul has more crunch and nuttiness and better absorption; my quinoa tabbouleh ended up being too moist and soft. . . perhaps three foreign ingredients is one more than this dish can bear. With the exception of lemons (arrived from India some time after the the 1st century AD) and tomatoes (in 1492 Columbus sailed the ocean blue) all other ingredients (wheat, the umbelliferous brothers - coriander and parsley, garlic, spring onions, dill and of course olive and her oil) are endemic to the Levant.

Tyrrell's Stevens Semillon 2007

2011-11-23T22:49:00.004+08:00

Hunter, NSW, Australia. Semillon. 12.2%. Screwcap.

Two unrelated thoughts as I twist the cap. How can producers of aromatic whites still seal their wines with cork, and the image of preserved lemons. . . From the instant the seal is removed this is alive, fresh and ready. There's no excess of reduction and there is certainly no doubt. Blossom and gun powder, flint, lemon zest and the first suggestion of toast. It is a fact locally acknowledged, that an unwooded Hunter Semillon of a particular age grows in stature and wants for nothing. Still, it comes as a pleasant surprise each time I taste. This wine perhaps even more so - the texture is mouth filling and the liquid carries perhaps a little more weight and density than expected. It still bristles and is full of impact, but the edges are more rounded and the citrus flavours have matured and remind me of the transformation that occurs with lemons left in brine. 91. Now - 2017.

Image: Port Hedland salt flats in the background from The Pilbara Project

An alcohol free day

2011-11-22T20:09:00.005+08:00

and surprisingly delicious Quinoa patties for dinner. Thank you to Barbara for the idea and Heidi for the recipe. There are many players, but the dominant flavours belong to the dill and feta, plus I decided to make some aioli for contrast. If I were having a drink, I would pick something white, acidic and Sauvignon or Semillon based. . .

Marq Fiano 2011

2011-11-21T06:41:00.000+08:00

Margaret River, Western Australia. Fiano. 12.5% (tastes bigger). Screwcap. Approx $A25.

Though this smells and tastes different from the only other Fiano I recall having, it does feel similar. A slightly fatty and textural wine. . . Pear and flint to start, it smells like a gris. The scent of ripe stonefuit (apricot) emerges later and I'm starting to think it smells like a viognier. . . Clearly I've no idea. After an opening few minutes of nondescript short flabbiness; it becomes quite pert, salty and crunchy. The finish is bitter and fleshy, giving the impression of a wine much bigger than the stated 12.5%.

A visually related post.

Chicken B'stilla

2011-11-20T19:40:00.002+08:00

On and off for the last 3 years I've been thinking of cooking a B'stilla. That curious and delicious Moroccan pie which is part sweet though mostly savoury. My cooking and reading are of course a very poor substitute for actual travel, but for now they will do. . .

Ingredients:

Olive oil
125 grams of butter (100g melted and for brushing filo)
3 onions - halved and sliced
2 cloves of garlic - crushed and chopped
15-20 almonds - blanched, skins removed, crushed
2 tbs pinenuts - toasted and crushed
2 teaspoons of cinnamon, plus extra for dusting
1.5 tsp ground ginger
1.5 tsp paprika
1.5 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp ground cumin
6 juniper berries - crushed
400g chicken thighs - cut into 1.5 inch pieces
1 large handful of flat leaf parsley - roughly chopped
1 large handful of fresh coriander roughly chopped
Juice of 1 lemon
Salt and pepper
8-10 sheets of filo
1 tbs icing sugar for dusting

How? There are two processes, which can be separated in time if required. I made my filling earlier in the morning and completed the pie just before dinner. . . For the filling - fry the onions in a few tablespoons of olive oil and a tablespoon of butter. Allow the onions to develop some colour (5 minutes), before adding the garlic and crushed nuts. Once the garlic is cooked (2-3 minutes), add all the spices, stir and wait another few minutes. Now add the chicken thighs. Stir occasionally, turning the heat off once the chicken has just been cooked (perhaps 5-10 minutes). Now add all the herbs and lemon juice, stir and incorporate, season to taste and then let the mixture cool.

I used a round, 22cm diametre baking dish, brushed with melted butter. 3-4 layers of filo were placed on the dish, each layer brushed with melted butter. Importantly, the filo overflows from the pan, so it can eventually be folded over to form the pie. Once the bottom layers of filo are in place fill the cavity with the now cool chicken mixture, partially cover with the over hanging filo and complete the top with another 3-4 layers of buttered filo. Bake for 20-25 minutes at 200 degrees C and then remove and dust with icing sugar and cinnamon. Serve while hot.

Chickpea stew

2011-11-19T20:16:00.005+08:00

After an afternoon of drinking, a slightly rushed (20-25 minute) chickpea stew. The miso paste is optional, but gives an additional umami hit. An alternative would be 1/4 of a cup of stock.

De Bortoli Reserve Syrah 2008. A showy wine - which I thought was a little disjointed. Whole bunches and ground raw meat, but in addition, the unexpected scent of raisins. Slightly sweet in the mouth, it's pleasing enough with its firm stalk flavoured tannins, but still I was left unconvinced.

Ingredients:

Olive oil
1 onion finely diced
1 clove of garlic chopped
small (1.5cm) knob of ginger - freshly grated
1/4 tsp cayenne pepper
1/2 tsp paprika
1/2 tsp turmeric
1 teaspoon cumin
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1x 400g tin of diced tomatoes
2x 400g tin of chickpeas - rinsed and drained
1 tablespoon of miso paste
1/4 cup of water
1/2 preserved lemon - rind finely chopped
1 small handful each of coriander and parsley leaves - roughly chopped

How? Add the oil to a large pan and toss in the onions and garlic. Stir and then add all the spices. Cook for a few minutes, allowing the onion to soften. Add the tin of diced tomatoes and simmer for a few minutes. Now the chickpeas, and cover and allow to simmer. After 10 of so minutes, add the miso if you are using it, the water and let this thicken slightly. Finally switch off the heat and throw in the preserved lemon rind and the fresh herbs.

Image: Jacaranda flowers

Henri Gouges Nuits St George Les Pruliers 1990

2011-11-18T07:07:00.003+08:00

Very incomplete and partial morning after recollections. A half stained cork, which I've managed to lose, a slightly stained label starting to come away at the sides and inside something remarkably fresh and lively. There were no signs of decline and the wine grew in stature as the night progressed. Meat, spice and leather, but certainly nothing impure; wonderful focus and clarity in the mouth, the firmness and brightness suggests this is no more than adolescent.

Domaine Coche-Dury Meursault Les Rougeots 2005

2011-11-17T23:48:00.004+08:00

I had my doubts. The fill was good, but the capsule was stained and surely my anticipation would be met with disappointment. . .

My concerns were unfounded. The wine was superb, and fresh. Flint and struck match; curry leaf, peach skin and stone. Wonderfully intense in the mouth - it lingers and persists, the weight is exemplary and there is a tremendous concluding spark - a twist of citrus, which is lime like in its endurance and concentration. 95. Now - 2016.

Hayshed Hill Block 8 Cabernet franc 2008

2011-11-16T06:59:00.000+08:00

Margaret River, Western Australia. Cabernet franc. 13.5%. Screwcap. Approx $A30.

A delicious wine, though the scent is awkward to begin - there's more varnish, weed and eucalyptus than you would hope for, but this is all evanescent, giving way to a more satisfying tobacco, blackcurrant and bay leaf. Juicy and bright in the mouth, the attack is brisk and edgy and yet there is no hardness, just crowd pleasing fruit and soft slightly chewy tannins. 90. Now - 2015.

Image: The entrance to Margaret River, looking towards Cape Mentelle; Margaret River hens.

Earlier today

2011-11-15T13:54:00.003+08:00

Image: Kakulas Brothers. The only place in Perth that bears a passing resemblance to a spice market.

Asparagus and meatball stir fry

2011-11-15T09:12:00.001+08:00

A somewhat dubious combination of methodologies, but the flavours are tried and tested (asparagus with pepper, garlic, ginger and meat) and the end result was pleasing.

Meatballs.

100g each of minced beef and pork
White pepper - 3-4 shakes
1-2 tablespoons of fish sauce
1 teaspoon of grated ginger
1 clove of garlic finely diced
1/4 - 1/2 cup of finely diced coriander stems
1/2 an onion - sliced into rings and then fried till golden and partly caramelized and then finely diced

Combine all the ingredients by hand, till reasonably homogeneous, then make your meatballs. Aim for small 1.5cm ones and then set aside.

Asparagus.

I used 3 small bunches (400 - 500g). Each shoot was slim, so the cooking time would be fairly minimal. Even so, I blanched the trimmed and chopped up asparagus in boiling water for about 30 seconds before the final stage of cooking.

Stir fry.

3 stages. Meat, asparagus and finally meat and asparagus. Heat the wok add your oil and then in batches add your meat balls and cook till well browned and sealed. Set aside. When all the meat balls are done toss in two cloves of chopped garlic and then seconds later the partly cooked asparagus. Toss and stir vigourously for 1 - 2 minutes before finally returning the meatballs and any juices to the wok. Toss / Stir again. To ensure the meatballs are cooked through add a small amount of water (50mls) and cover with a lid for a few minutes, allowing the steam to finish the cooking.

The Prophet

2011-11-14T10:56:00.003+08:00

Two recent meals, quite different in emphasis and impact.

First a degustation @ Harvest, in North Fremantle. The setting is whimsical, an urban restaurant complete with its own large and well looked after herb and vegetable patch. A relaxed and darkened bar at the front, it feels like a University student's rented house - it's small, intimate and enticing. The kitchen is in the centre, visible from most points of the dining space, open and easily audible; intentional or not, it gave me the (unwanted) feeling of being a visitor in someone's home. The food though, is beautifully presented, the flavours true and undisguised and the technique (foam, agar sheets. . .) adds to the impact without appearing superfluous.
Another minor quibble relates to the wines offered with the degustation on the night, (the standard and the reserve selection) these were mostly easily obtainable and pedestrian, the reserve wines in particular (you are paying $80 for 5 tasting glasses) could have been more challenging and harder to find.

The Prophet in East Victoria Park on the City's most heavily restauranted street is BYO ($3 per bottle). With young children in tow and arriving early (Six), I found the space to be comfortable and once again homely. The atmosphere shifts with time and by 7:30pm the tiny restaurant heaves with humanity. The food is simple, some of the plates come with chips; and be warned they arrive in convoy - with speed and at short notice. Having developed a mild obsession about the food of the Levant, nurtured by books and my own experimentation in the kitchen, I found my self transported by the simple dishes. The kibbeh, falafel and the baba ghanoush in particular were superb. This trio of excellence makes it easy to forgive the underdone and slightly raw baklava. . . Of my two recent meals, this one provided the greatest pleasure.

Image: A beautiful and smoky Baba ghanoush.

Oakridge Lieu-Dit Mackay Vineyard 2009

2011-11-13T22:04:00.003+08:00

Macedon, Victoria, Australia. Chardonnay. 13.5%. Screwcap. Approx $A45.

A searing and bristling wine. Flint and struck match, lemon juice, peach skin and spice. Intense, lean and tight in the mouth, you can imagine the cold and yet sun drenched days. . . Though there are more and more local wines in this style, very few can match the length and focus. 93. Now - 2016.

The Marq Gamay - is possibly more delicious than before. It's loaded with Maraschino cherry, on the nose and in the mouth, but it's cut with stems, tea leaf, earth and spice. It needs a few hours to really shine, which makes me wonder if this might be a mid term cellaring prospect.

Harvest

2011-11-12T15:34:00.002+08:00

The cooler, wetter weather in Perth has pushed back the annual father and daughter mulberry foraging season. As finger and lip staining as ever, we decided to crush a small portion of our bounty and make juice.

Three small bottles

2011-11-11T16:03:00.002+08:00

Milk, flowers, Riesling.

Friday

2011-11-11T15:35:00.003+08:00

If only more days could be as bright and self indulgent. A day absent from the troubles of work; aimlessly and curiously wandering the streets of Fremantle; camera in hand, my senses trying to absorb all the textures. The adorable small terrace houses on George St with their twisted Mulberry trees, the monastic and dappled peacefulness of the Fremantle Art centre and finally an unexpectedly good bowl of karage ramen washed down with a green apple bubble tea, from the wonderful and already well known Dosukoi.

Grosset Polish Hill 2011

2011-11-11T06:46:00.000+08:00

Clare Valley, South Australia. Riesling. 12.5%. Screwcap. Approx $A40.

11.11.11

Talc, wet river stones, lime blossom, lavender scented bath soap and white pepper. A captivating and clean nose which exudes freshness with an undercurrent of gun barrel. . . It changes in the mouth. To begin it seemed slightly attenuated and oily; texturally quite different from what I can recall of the previous vintage. There is less immediate electricity and though this is still coiled it seems more diffuse than expected. Even so, from the first sip - there is concluding and lingering jolt of lime juice. . . Hours later the nose is much the same, though perhaps the pepper and gun barrel are a little more apparent. In the mouth, the shape is better; there is more energy and less oil, as well as some bitter citrus pith. 93. Now - 2016+

Brussels sprouts

2011-11-10T19:57:00.004+08:00

The bitterness is concentrated in the central of the sprout, and as McGee suggests, it is worth partially cooking halved Brussels sprouts in boiling water to extract and lessen the bitterness. Whilst doing this, I also started frying some cubes guanciale in a pan to render much of the fat. Once the pork is golden and there is a good layer of liquid fat in the pan add some small cubes of potato which have been par boiled and cook for a few minutes until the potatoes have taken up some colour. Finally add the now strained and part cooked Brussels sprouts, face done and leave for a few minutes.

Postcard: Maylands

2011-11-09T13:20:00.002+08:00

A structurally sound and quite delicious hamburger from the quaint Old Bakery on 8th. The gunshop is still nextdoor, and the avenue is still dotted with mostly derelict Bric-a-brac stores; but there is a definite and presumably unstoppable gentrification of the area. Be it Mrs. S, Sherbet or the newer Smoults continental deli (stocking Jamon, $120/kg proscuiito di San Danielle and a good range of cheeses); the area still a pleasing mix of yesterday and today is blossoming.

Fleur de sel

2011-11-08T20:01:00.004+08:00

Flower of salt - the finest and most delicate crystals harvested by hand from salt pans, just as they form on the surface. Unlike the beach evoking sel gris, these are dainty and pure and expensive. . . Curiosity comes at a price; in this case $A16 for a 125g calico bag.

Harissa and pomegranate rub

2011-11-08T14:22:00.004+08:00

A hat tip to Chris, the creator of the wonderful Oz Wine Toons for helping me decide what to have for dinner. . .

A partially boned leg of lamb (shank bone still in situ) was coated with the above Harissa and pomegranate rub, left for a few hours and then roasted at modest heat (150 - 160 degrees C) for 2 hours. A cup of water was added to the pan at the start of the process (and another cup midway through the cooking) and the resultant sauce was drizzled over the cut meat.

The rub is modification of Claire's recipe from the Masterchef V2 cookbook.

Ingredients:

2 tsp each of coriander and cumin seeds - dry roasted for 1 minute and then pounded in mortar and pestle
4 long red chillies - seeded
4 cloves of garlic
2 tsp of smoked paprika
2 tbs of tomato paste
2 tbs brown sugar
1 tbs of white wine vinegar
1/3 cup of olive oil
1/4 cup of pomegranate molasses
Zest of 1/2 a preserved lemon - finely diced

How? Pulse for the first 7 ingredients with a food processor / stab blender till a suitable consistency. Add the remaining ingredients and fold in and set aside till ready to use.

Cherubino Riesling 2011

2011-11-07T21:03:00.001+08:00

Porongurup, Great Southern, Western Australia. Riesling. 12%. Screwcap. Approx $A31.

As the dial on the back label attests, this is virtually bone dry, and yet despite this apparent hardness and austerity, it explodes with vitality and purity. It's achingly intense, linear and focused. I know it is imprecise, but this is like a sting: an instant of searing sensation as it enters the mouth and beautiful telescopic length and mouth puckering tightness. A delicate, but expected nose; talc, white pepper and lime zest. . . my mouth waters in anticipation. Superb, intense and biting acidity giving a sensation of salt, minerals and electricity. With my imperfect memory, this is better than the 2010 and perhaps as good as the 2009. 95. Now - 2021.

The sense of an ending

2011-11-07T02:11:00.004+08:00

Two quotes from the extraordinary and existentially troubling novella by Julian Barnes.

We live with such easy assumptions, don't we? For instance, that memory equals events plus time. But it's all much odder than this. Who was it who said that memory is what we thought we'd forgotten? And it ought to be obvious to us that time doesn't act as a fixative, rather as a solvent. But it's not convenient - it's not useful - to believe this; it doesn't help us get on with our lives; so we ignore it. page 63.

But time. . . how time first grounds us and then confounds us. We thought we were being mature when we were only being safe. We imagined we were being responsible but were only being cowardly. What we called realism turned out to be a way of avoiding things rather than facing them. Time. . . give us enough time and our best-supported decisions will seem wobbly, our certainties whimsical. page 93.

Image: Dust cover at night.

Pomegranate molasses

2011-11-06T15:22:00.003+08:00

Mother nature's daughter, Persephone was lured to the underworld by a pomegranate. . . I can recall as a child living in a house which had a fecund though largely ignored shrub which bore these wonderful fruit, sadly my palate was too immature and most of the crop was left for the insects. . . The smell of the molasses is disturbingly familiar and I have an urge to visit a candy store so I can test my hypothesis. The image of the politically incorrect Redskin keeps coming back, but I'm not sure. It certainly smells of something sticky and sweet that I used to eat as a child.

Fraser Gallop Chardonnay 2009

2011-11-06T01:04:00.000+08:00

Wilyabrup, Margaret River. Chardonnay. 13.5%. Screwcap. Approx $A35.

A delicious and representative Margaret River Chardonnay; a succinct and intense statement of flint, grilled peach, flesh and acidity. The flinty acids give this wine a newness and freshness that reminds me of Spring, it's beautifully paced, precise and yet to be blemished by age and excess. 93. Now - 2015.

Pastitsio

2011-11-05T09:53:00.005+08:00

It's hard not to think of Greece. Each day a new headline which seemingly reinforces the notion that it is the class dunce, forever to be confined to the austerity corner. It seems to be an entirely unfair characterisation for a country which faces two equally difficult decisions. To stay and suffer or to leave and rebuild from nothing. The push for more austerity and seemingly endless and pointless suffering has a puritanical zeal to it, which each moment must make the uncertainty and loneliness of excommunication more and more appealing.

Pastitsio is often called a Greek Lasagna. It has a more rigid structure (like the EU) by virtue of the hollow pasta tubes, which never develop that melting softness and give of flat pasta sheets surrounded by a ragu. The pictured plate is based on this Tessa Kiros recipe. It makes a lovely mid week meal and the leftover freeze well, but for me it will never have the guilty, unruly pleasure that comes from a good lasagna.

Sel gris

2011-11-05T08:54:00.004+08:00

In an alternate dimension I can imagine myself owning a small shop called Sel gris. On offer would be unpackaged unrefined sea salt and home made small goods. It would smell of the ocean and aniseed and fennel and of course pork. . .

In the interim I'll have to content myself with the taste and feel of sel gris. The imperfections and inconsistency of the crystals; the dull grey from animal, mineral and vegetable impurities; the retaining moisture; and of course that lingering taste of the sea that each pinch delivers.

Ruggabellus Timaeus 2009

2011-11-03T21:10:00.004+08:00

Barossa, South Australia. Grenache 69: Mourvedre 16: Shiraz 15. Screwcap. 13.6%. Approx $A45.

Distinctively and beautifully packaged. There is something modern and yet old school about the label and typography; the bottle too are notable for the lack of punt and their lightness (about 350 grams).

Slightly lighter in colour than expected, the nose is spiced and sappy and in the mouth I thought the wine was serpentine. Dried herbs, menthol and eucalyptus; it smells of Australia. Pepper, stems and raw meat. In attack it is smooth, coiled and energetic; a muscular and yet slippery wine. Bright and well paced the olfactory theme of spice and meat continues to the end. 90. Now - 2019.

Melva by KT

2011-11-01T19:46:00.004+08:00

Watervale, Clare, South Australia. Riesling. Screwcap. Approx $A26.

On the 1.11.11 my 1111 tasting note.

The one with the pink polka dots. A curious wine. I wonder if it is the vintage or stylistic choice. Wild fermented and orchestrated by Kerri Thompson it smells and tastes like a Grey wine. Pear skin and flint, rose petal and grape skin. The usual Clare Valley Riesling characters are in the background. Rounded, and to this observer slightly fatty. The electricity is there but attenuated by the sweetness and musk flavoured flesh. 89-90. Now - 2014.

Post script: Day 6 and a sip of the refrigerated remains - now more typically Clare in scent, with lime and blossom; still notably sweet and soft on the tongue, though the texture and shape have improved. I think the drinking window can be extended.

La Violetta das sakrileg Riesling 2009

2011-10-30T22:25:00.000+08:00

Mount Barker, Great Southern, Western Australia. Riesling. 12%. Screwcap. Approx $A30.

I cling to the notion that all actions have a reason and occasionally a meaning. With that pair of cognitive lenses, I tend to look at new labels and ask questions. Will a wine called das sakrileg be shocking or profane? Will it be Germanic? Would I have bought the wine if it had the translated name - The Da Vinci Code? Two negatives and a maybe. . . It tastes like a Great Southern riesling, though I concede the spice and texture might remind you of a Rheingau Trocken.

Though barrel fermented and unfiltered and unfined, such tricks are no longer unusual in Australian riesling. It smells of lime zest, wax, white flowers, flint and pepper. I've scribbled salty twice in my draft tasting note, and there is a clear sensation of salt in the mouth - presumably it relates to the acids and the texture. There a pleasing weight and flesh to this, though some might say it verges on unctuous. The acids give a sting and for a fleeting moment I can taste rose petals, before it becomes more tropical and ginger spiced. It's appealing in its imperfections and nuance, without being exceptional. 89. Now - 2016.

Related.

Postcard: The Queen in Perth

2011-10-29T15:45:00.002+08:00

I've mentioned the Lewis Chessmen before, so it was pleasing to be able to see in person the White Queen. Made from Walrus tusk, from the front she is all worries and her eyes look thyrotoxic, while in profile her face is younger and more serene. This tusk Queen, with her diminished powers (only 1 square per move) is currently on loan from the British National Museum, to coincide with the Queen Elizabeth's visit and the CHOGM.

For this weekend at least, Perth feels like a different place. The city centre is full of colour and movement. The protesters you see, seem to be in good cheer and for country that will one day presumably become a republic, everyone you meet seems to be happily Elizabethan.

Wildcroft Estate Wild One Shiraz 2007

2011-10-27T19:49:00.005+08:00

Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia. Shiraz. 13.4%. Diam. Approx $A60.

The back label and in particular this one line caught my attention - Grown on the estate and made by Phillip Jones at Bass Phillip.

As to the package, it's the only bottle I've come across which is sealed with two capsules. First something red and foil and atop this, a second, black and waxen. It's a curious decision and clearly a case of form before function. The wine itself is likely to divide. You can smell and taste the decisions and in particular what I would assume is Brettanomyces. It smells wild and spiced, there is a note of stems and then it's all animal; saddle and hide, small goods and game, but also a less flattering suggestion of sticking plaster to off set the peppercorns, aniseed and licorice. Quite rasping and adhesive in the mouth, though this does subside. It is not an unpleasant wine with its rustic and primal edge, but on this, and most other nights I'd prefer something with more charm, poise and cleanliness.

A Midweek trio

2011-10-26T23:46:00.002+08:00

Clonakilla Viognier 2009. Distinctive, bristling and textural. While I thought the 08 was pert and attractive, this has too much musk and almond meal. For me no more than a one or two glass wine.

More success with the 2006 Ata Rangi Pinot noir. I've tried it a few time now, and tonight it seems more luminous and wonderful. A beautiful nose - spiced with a note of dried citrus peel and smoke. Well weighted and brightly paced.

The final wine of the night was the pictured 2010 Head Brunette Syrah (Moppa, Barossa, South Australia. 13.8%. Screwcap). A nose soaked and hedonistic with black berries and cherry pips, it smells slippery and elusive. . . In amongst the various players I can sniff some whole bunches. Firm and juicy in the mouth, but with no sign of heaviness, raisins or anything approaching chocolate. Instead a delightful seam of brightness, rose petals and Turkish delight. Superb. 94. Now - 2020.

Pittnauer Fuchsenfeld 2008

2011-10-23T21:30:00.006+08:00

Fuchsenfeld, Burgunland, Austria. Pinot noir. 13.5%. Screwcap.

I spent the afternoon watching the Rugby World Cup final. The French put in a marvelous second half effort and for the last ten minutes I was willing them to win. They certainly seemed to be playing the more adventurous and beautiful game. In the end the Kiwis prevailed and I put my selected bottle of Burgundy away and settled on something Austrian instead.

Beautifully perfumed, the volume of scent seems more pronounced then any recently recalled example. Musk, animal hide and petals; but also something harder to pin down - dried citrus peel, oyster mushroom, cherry confection and skid marks. Quite light, sappy and assertive, I found it a little too adhesive and squeaky. 16/20. Now - 2013.

Staniford Great Southern Reserve Chardonnay 2010

2011-10-22T19:37:00.004+08:00

Albany, Great Southern, Western Australia. Chardonnay. 13%. Screwcap. Approx $A30.

Served far too cold to begin. Green apple, flint, lemon curd, grass and something Chablis like. Once warm and awake a trace of ginger spice and a persistent suggestion of gun barrels. Fleshy, gripping and laden with bitter phenolics, it seems a little too angular, oiled and sun burnt. 15/20. Now - 2013.